Sofia is not exactly what it seems on the outside. We arrived rather late on our first day there, so after checking into the hotel and dropping our bags off, we hit the strip in search of nightlife. We had believed the nightlife options available were rather limited as the strip contained mostly bar/restaurant hybrids – so we went into one called Raffy‘s and ordered sushi for our dinner that night before a brief stop into a bar called “Beer Bar Stop”, we attempted to visit an Irish bar called McCarthy’s that we noticed on Google Maps, but it appeared to have been closed, as there was a burger shop at the location.
Our main draw for Sunday was attending the CSKA vs Levski Sofia football match. Also known as the “Eternal Derby”, it had been ranked as the 2nd most intense football rivalry in Eastern Europe by Goal.com, and the fans of both sides were making themselves heard all around the Vasil Levski Stadium, with swarms of blue fans on one side, and red fans at the other.
There was a heavy police presence outside the ground as these clashes usually result in violence between the fan groups, and some fan groups actually arrange to fight one another around Sofia after games.
It wasn’t difficult securing tickets for the game, they cost 15 Lev each in Urbo (a Bulgarian ticketmaster-esque app).
Both clubs have won the Bulgarian league multiple times, and are the 2 most successful Bulgarian football teams. The quality of football was poor, the fans were loud and intimidating – and are far too keen to through up Nazi salutes and chant something that sounded suspiciously like “Sieg Heil”.
Fireworks were let off throughout the game, and the CSKA fans frequently aimed fireworks at the Levski fans. We got chatting to a few locals after the game, they told us the Nazi element within the fanbase has only really become pronounced over the past 3-5 years, it was disgraceful to see. You essentially had 2 groups who despise one another, yet they’re indistinguishable from one another apart for the colour they wear, think Crips and Bloods if they were Nazi loving football fans rather than street gangs.
Police kitted out in riot gear stood between the ultras of both clubs, whilst the CSKA fans broke a barrier trying to get through to the Levski ultras at half time.
The game ended 0-0, and after being stood in cold, wet conditions for 2 hours we eagerly hunted for a bar, and embarked on a little pub crawl before stopping into “Happy”, a restaurant chain just opposite the Alexander Nevski Cathedral, which is perhaps Sofia’s most famous building.
We just ate some poutine to keep us going before snapping some photos of the nearby sites: Ivan Vazov National Theatre, the Sofia Statue, the Presidential Palace and the ruins of Serdica, a Roman town that was discovered when Sofia was building a new subway station in the early 2010s. Stretching from the Presidential Palace to Alexander Nevsky cathedral, the Serdica ruins are truly an experience as you’re walking amongst artefacts from 1500+ years ago and then walking into a subway station.
That night we visited a few bars alongside the Main Street, sampling cocktails and more local beers before going to a takeaway noodle shop for dinner (Wok to Walk), where we tested our ability to eat with chopsticks after renewed confidence in our ability after Düsseldorf.
Monday was our last day and was a rather tame affair. I wanted to visit Com.bar, a communist themed bar that has old Bulgarian army weapons and uniforms on site, in addition to communist murals on the wall. It was a cool venue, and having the opportunity to dress up, really added to the experience.
The gun in the below photos is a real, decommissioned Soviet assault rifle, and it’s amazing how heavy it and the coat actually were. Standing around in them both all day would be exhausting.
Whilst we were in Com.bar, we met an English guy David who was teaching in Sofia, who told us that McCarthy’s bar wasn’t closed, you had to enter through a residential building at the side, and it was on the 2nd floor. We were sceptical, but he agreed to show us where it was as he was heading there afterwards. We got recommendations for authentic Bulgarian food from him, and agreed to meet him at McCarthy’s afterwards.
I ordered lamb skull for my meal, which was tender, but the bits of brain on my plate were off putting and unenjoyable.
After dining at Shtastliveca, we walked back to McCarthy’s and met David, and he told us the truth, there was an Irish bar inside this residential building, and a lively atmosphere. We ended up mingling with a group of backpackers from all over (Norway, Germany and the US to be exact) and enjoyed their company. When McCarthy’s was due to close, the backpackers told us they planned to go clubbing, and as it was our last night we agreed to go hard before going home.
We ventured for about 15 minutes and ended up reaching the nightclub, which like McCarthy’s was located in the basement of a residential building. Here we encountered an adorable fluffy dog, which I suppose is the best way to end any holiday.
Ironically, our last day provided the best weather in Sofia, and we were able to get a great photo of the Sofia Statue as we’re were saying goodbye.
One thing I noticed about Sofia is how wobbly the footpaths are. If you’ve weak ankles, this city will not be your friend. Whilst the city centre looks rather scenic, and the further you venture out, you encounter rougher looking streets, the footpaths are consistently wobbling irregardless of what part of the city you are in.
All in all, it’s a cool affordable getaway if you’d just like a few days away in a new place whilst not doing a great deal of tourist things. I’d not be opposed to returning.