Rome had been high on my “to-visit” list for quite some time, and after a few proposed trips to Rome fell through, I was finally able to experience this historic city in August for a few days before embarking on a cruise trip around the Mediterranean departing from Civitavecchia, with my family and Fiancée.
Our first night into Rome, we arrived quite late, after a taxi from the airport into our apartment on the outskirts of the Vatican, we just ventured out for a quick bite to eat, and a drink or 2, we ended up at Bono Bottega Nostrana – San Pietro was a delightful venue to grab a late night sandwich/cheese platter and a glass of wine before the following day, which was jam packed full of sightseeing for us.
Our day started off quite early as our tickets to the Colosseum were timed for 10AM. It was approaching 30°C as we left our apartment, and was expected to peak at 37°C each day of our trip. We stopped for breakfast at location close to the nearest metro station and made our way to the sites. Mentally you know the Colosseum is huge, but you don’t realise HOW big until you see it in person. It’s mesmerising that they were able to construct such a monstrous stadium almost 2,000 years ago – especially compared to some modern day sports theatres.
Upon entrance, it’s just as spectacular – and you’re left wondering about the many thousands of people, and animals slaughtered there for the amusement of the Roman elite.
Next to the Colosseum is the Roman Forum, which was like the city centre back in old Rome, containing many government buildings and marketplaces. It formed over time as Rome naturally grew into a small bustling city from neighbouring cities – and like the Colosseum, you’re amazed by what they could achieve without modern technology to build such buildings.
The forum was left neglected from 800AD onwards and fell into disrepair, and was later used as both a source for building material and as a dump in later Rome, with numerous Popes using it to build various buildings around Rome from the bricks in these ancient structures.
From the Forum, we walked a steep hill to the Altar of the Fatherland, and then snapped a few photographs before looking for some reprieve from the sun.
Next up was the Trevi Fountain, which took approximately 15 minutes to walk, and if not for the massive fine for getting into it, I’d have dived straight in to cool down, the heat was approaching unbearable levels.
A slush puppy did it’s best to cool me down, but we decided it best to push on towards the Spanish Steps. At the Spanish Steps, there was a debate as to whether or not we should climb them – I suggested we should, as when in Rome…
Besides, Google maps looked like the subway station was at the top of the steps (it wasn’t), so everybody in the group climbed the steps, some really struggled, but we all got there in the end. However, when we realised the “metro station” at the top of the Spanish steps was a lift to the bottom of them to access the station properly, I’m pretty sure some of our group could have murdered me.
We returned to our apartment after the sightseeing to freshen up, before going North of the city to the Olympic Stadium for Lazio vs Bologna. Securing tickets was relatively easy, and being able to have a beer inside the stadium was nice. Lazio having a reputation as a far right club made me a bit apprehensive about attending their game, but the atmosphere was great, and I couldn’t see or hear anything untoward throughout the match (although I don’t speak Italian).
Afterwards we were struggling to get an Über back to the apartment so decided to walk a little and grab a drink at the first bar we found before ordering an Uber from there. Ironically the first bar we found was Four Green Fields, an Irish Bar.
The next day we had to squeeze in the remaining sites we couldn’t manage on day 1 of sightseeing. First up was the colossal Pantheon. There was a mass on inside; so we were unable to physically enter, but we admired this huge church from the outside and took in some shelter in a nearby bar, just admiring the sheer size of this temple, initially built before 14AD, and rebuilt presumably in 126AD under the Roman Emperor Hadrian (also famous of ordering a wall be built) after the original temple burned down. It has been operated as a Catholic Church since 609AD.
After catching our breath at the Pantheon, we walked to Circus Maximus, a former chariot racing track, now essentially just a wasteground, but it was once where Gaius Appuleius Diocles was adored by the Roman public. He is renowned as the “richest sportsperson ever” as his earnings by the time he retire would be approximately $15 billion USD today (35,863,120 sesterces).
Following admiring the wasteland racetrack, we embarked on a train to the EUR district. Located in South Rome, the area was commissioned by Benito Mussolini to host the world fair in 1942. The fair never took place due to World War II, however, one of the buildings still stands tall, the impeding Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana (also known as the Square Colosseum). I had read about this building and the area online so was intrigued to go visit it. Whilst this monstrous fascist structure never got to serve its’ intended purpose of showcasing Italian fascism, it does now host the headquarters of high fashion brand Fendi.
Adorning the top of the structure is a quote from a Mussolini speech on 2 October 1935: “Un popolo di poeti, di artisti, di eroi, di santi, di pensatori, di scienziati, di navigatori, di trasmigratori” (“a nation of poets, of artists, of heroes, of saints, of thinkers, of scientists, of navigators, of migrators”).
A stark contrast to Hitler’s legacy in Germany.
We stopped off in the Trastevere district on our way back to our apartment to sample the famous bars there, whilst it was too early to fully experience it, the atmosphere was still nice and lively.
My friend Stephen had been visiting Rome at the same time as us, so naturally we met up for a few drinks. “When in Rome” and all that.
Our last day prior to catching the cruise included a quick pit stop into the Vatican to see the Sistine chapel. My experience of the Vatican was essentially a slow moving queue that ends after 45 minutes at the Sistine Chapel, which the security quickly usher you out of.
The Vatican museum contains all sorts of knick knacks unrelated to the Vatican, and you could probably spend a day in it.
However not during a heatwave surrounded by dozens of other sweaty tourists. Upon leaving the Vatican Museum, we gazed at the sheer number of tourists, and hundreds more queuing for the exact same sweaty experience we just finished.
Rome was amazing, nice food, lovely architecture, a nice atmosphere. But it is extremely tourist heavy. It’s a city that I don’t think I could live in with the constant tourist swarms, but I would return amongst the swarms in a heartbeat.