Straight on from Bratislava, we embarked on part 2 of our week away and travelled via train to Prague (or Praha as the locals call it).
We arrived in Prague to blistering heat. And (stupidly) did not check out public transport methods from the train station to our hostel. Instead we (again, stupidly) walked. A what should have been 50 minute walk with a few beer stops along the way was what followed. We didn’t realise there was an underground train until our last day. Like I said, stupid.
We finally dropped our bags off in the Andel/Smíchov area of Prague and explored for some food/drink. Our room was on the top of a 6 story building, with only stairs to get to the top. The view from our room was worth the stair climb, it overlooked the Staropramen brewery, the river and the massive quadriceps from walking up/down the stairs throughout our stay was a bonus.
Our first day was chilled, a sampling a local restaurant and then onto the bars, briefly trying the nightlife at Naplavka – a like boat party spread across about 400m of the riverfront, on many boats – before catching an early night before the sightseeing the next day.
We booked ourselves onto a walking tour with Sandemans New Europe Tours. They are ‘free’ walking tours, although the tour guide is a freelance surviving off tips, they recommend you pay what you think the tour is worth at the end. We were really impressed with Sandemans in Prague and later booked them again for Brussels.
The walking tour started in the main square, and gave an overview of the history of the city running through Charlemagne and the Holy Roman Empire, Papal crusades against the city, Mozart’s adoration for Prague and the reception he regularly received when playing his music in the City, all the way up to World War II.
We spoke to the tour guide after and booked on with Sandemans to visit the concentration camp at Terezín, north of Prague the following day.
But first, more sightseeing (and food). The heat (still 30°C+) called for us to sample the trdlo, ice cream in a delicious cinnamon cone.
Next up was the John Lennon was before climbing the never ending hill to Prague Castle.
The John Lennon Wall was nice, a sequence of messages scrawled over one another with a few pictures and John Lennon quotes chucked in, though no mention of his domestic abuse.
The ‘castle’ aspect of Prague castle was a little exaggerated in my opinion. It was a miniature city inside a wall, where as Bratislava castle was genuinely a castle. Though they did have a cathedral within the ‘castle walls’, and you know what I’m like when it comes to cathedrals.
Nonetheless the views at the top of that massive hill were phenomenal.
At the bottom of the steps out of Prague castle we caught our breathe and I was stricken by a very
‘w a n d e r l u s t‘
message on the side of a building.
We walked back to near Charles Bridge and took a boat trip around the river Vltava being bombarded by more history onboard, but being far too tired to take it in – we just enjoyed the sights and the relaxed watching the waves.
We went for food that evening at Bernard Pub Andel, near where we stayed – and the Bernard beer was delicious. As was the food, but the beer made me happier.
The next day we travelled to Terezín, or Thereseinstadt as the German occupiers called it. Terezín was a military fortress used by the Austro-Hungarian Empire. They actually imprisoned Gavrilo Princip (the man who pretty much kickstarted World War I here).
When the Nazi’s came calling they used Terezín as a prop. They allowed the Jewish prisoners to use their ‘own currency’, allowed the prisoners to create and circulate Jewish newspapers throughout the prison, allowed an in camp football league and even imprisoned high profile Jewish entertainers here to perform shows – almost like the Hollywood of concentration camps. Of course, this was all a facade – this camp was used to deceive the Red Cross of the true nature of the Nazi death camps.
The impartial Red Cross visited Thereseinstadt and were satisfied nothing sinister was going on, and cancelled the rest of their tour round the other concentration camps, which supposedly had Auschwitz as its’ second stop.
Following on from the concentration camp, we decided to do something upbeat (so we went drinking). We spent the bulk of that night in Vzorkovna, it was recommended to me by someone living in Prague as “the bar all the cool tourists go to”. So I brushed off my cool jacket, and got ready. We arrived to a line, mixed with locals and backpackers. When we finally reached the entrance we were greeted by signs saying “enter at your own risk” and “injuries or death occurred on premises are not the liability of the owner” or something along those lines. I was half expecting to enter a biker bar with ongoing knife fights. It was very chill though. You pay in and receive a card with credit on it to use for drinks. Smoking was allowed throughout, and they seemingly have a resident Irish Wolfhound onsite (See my fluffy pa below). When you google Vzorkovna or search it on Insta, the dog is a prominent result.
When we entered I saw the dog as Amy walked on, I initially thought it was a stuffed wolf until I noticed its tail wagging. I excitedly shouted to Amy to come appreciate the big doggo with me. It’s without a doubt the strangest and most intriguing bar I’ve ever been in – and to any beer enthusiasts the black Budvar on tap was particularly nice.
All in all, Prague was a very rich history across many eras, it has picturesque buildings, great beer (you can check out my top picks of European beers here) and a vibrant personality. I would really recommend visiting if you ever get the chance.